WiP Brythoniaid Dyndraig

It's been a few weeks since my last update. Luckily, this silence wasn't imposed by a lack of painting, but by a lack of taking the time to post the stuff I have painted! This week, we'll take a look at some more models by Mierce Miniatures: the Dyndraig of the Brythoniaid. Eventually this unit will have six models, where it will fill a Chaos Ogres role in my Dragon Cult list.

Start to finish, after the jump...




Three primed models.  When painting a unit in shifts like this (where I come back to finish the unit later), I tend to take painstaking notes as to what I'm painting, so I can ensure color consistency.
As always, I tend to start on the lowest layer of the model when painting. Hence, we start with skin, then we'll do the wraps and cloth over the skin, then the claws and horns on top of the skin, then the metal armor on top of everything else. This unit was painted over three weeks, so any jumps in layering, note-taking, or bits where I just sort of did all the non-metallic-metals without talking about it are to be taken in stride.


So, we'll start with the greens. Base coat is 4 parts Vallejo Cayman Green : 1 part SS Camo Black Brown : 1.5 parts Turquoise. I'm using turquoise to tie the green and blues of this army together; I have some units who will be primarily one and other units the other. Using the turquoise will hopefully bridge the difference between the two and make for a more consistent palette.



  
Second layer of greens used 2 parts Cayman Green to 2 parts Goblin Green, followed by 1 part SS Camo Black Brown and 1.5 parts Turquoise.





The third layer used 2 parts Goblin Green to 3 parts Scorpion Green, with 1 part SS Camo Black Brown and 1.5 parts Turquoise. I started an intermediate shade here of just 4 parts Goblin Green to the SS Camo Black and Turquoise, but it was indistinguishable from the previous shade, so I just painted over the top of it.





The unit, with four more rapid-fire layers down. The fifth layer was 4 parts Scorpion Green to 1 part Lemon Yellow, with 1 part Turquoise and half a part SS Camo Black Brown. I then did a sixth layer with 2 parts Scorpion Green, 2 parts Lemon Yellow, and the same Turquoise/SS Camo Black Brown ratios. Once that layer was done, I added two drops of Lemon Yellow, painted another layer, and then added 3 parts Lemon Yellow and 2 parts White and did a very, very fine highlight with that last shade.


The first three layers of white. I started with a base coat of Medium Sea Grey, then added a layer of 1:1 Medium Sea Grey and Wolf Grey, then a layer of just Wolf Grey.




For the final layer of white, I used a 50/50 mix of Wolf Grey to white. It's brighter than I'm used to having on a non-metallic portion of the model, so I was nervous about it. Hopefully it would just help the rest of the model to pop forward...




On to the teeth, horns, wood,and bone! I used my standard bone shades for this, starting with 4 parts Leather Brown to 4 parts SS Camo Black Brown, with a drop of Goblin Green to show the bone reflecting the green skintone.
I then took a week off and threw a birthday party for my daughter. She's two, so she didn't understand why Daddy's painting was important.


I came back and went into the second layer of the bone: 4 parts Leather Brown to 2 parts SS Camo Black Brown. I still added 1 part Goblin Green for the tint.




For the third layer, I used 4 parts Leather Brown : 1 part Goblin Green : 1 part Medium Grey. I love Medium Grey for bone.




For the fourth layer of bone, I went with 1 part Leather Brown to 3 parts Medium Grey with a drop of Goblin Green. I'm pleased with how the scales on the backs of the unit are turning out, but frustrated with the horns.


This post is surprisingly free of beer so far, so here's a gratutious shot of Lagunitas The Kronik, along with the models somewhere between layer 2 and 5.




For the fifth layer, I used 1 part Medium Grey to 3 parts Pale Flesh. I then did a sixth layer with 2 parts Pale Flesh to 2 parts White. The sixth layer is VERY subdued, but is what makes the model pop.With that concluded, I moved on to the brass:


I used the same shades for my brass as I did for the Tawrdraig. You can read more about it there if you're interested. It's done with wet blending, and careful painting over it repeatedly. I then followed by wet blending my metallic silvers (again using the Tawrdraig colors), and started on the blues.



The first layer of blue was 4 Medium Blue : 1 part black. Once that base coat was down, I came back with a layer of pure Medium Blue, mixed 3:1 with Turquoise (again, keeping my palette similar between units).


For the third layer of blue, I used 2 Medium Blue : 1 part Sky Blue. For the fourth layer, I used 1 part Medium Blue to 3 parts Sky Blue.


Finally, I hit the highest points with a mixture of 3 Sky Blue : 1 Skull White. This made the blues very distinctive in contrast, as they've gone from Black to White.






For the reds, I started with 3 parts Red : 1 part Red. The reds are very subtle on the models: They comprise the eyes, the guns and tongue, and any dragon iconography on their gut plates. I also used it to paint the wyrmling on the top of the standard.
With the base coat in place, I then did a pair of additional layers, using Bloody Red and Orange Fire.







The final unit.